Sleeveless Amelie Sewalong - Part 5 - Assembling the Skirt & Gathering

How are you feeling now that you have your bodice fully assembled and all that's left to complete is your skirt and some finishing details? I hope you are feeling quite accomplished and proud of yourself!

Today, we are going to prep our entire skirt for the plackets & pockets tomorrow. Once those are on, we can put the skirt together with the bodice and practically have a finished dress!

 

34) With right sides together, pin & sew your front skirt pieces together; Finish your seams. Skip this step if you cut your front skirt on the fold !


35) Attach your skirt extension pieces to your skirt, both front & back. If the skirt extension seams extend a bit past your skirt, that’s OK! This extra is just the seam allowance and will be hidden once sewn into place & pressed.

Your extension pieces should extend a bit past the top and bpttpm of your skirt- these little triangles will blend with the skirt line once the seam is finished and pressed back!

 

35a) Finish seams then press towards the CF or CB. I did a simple serged edge for my seams, but you can add bias tape, use pinking shears, or opt for a zip zag stitch here!

36) With right sides together, attach your front to back skirts. You'll want to make sure your extension pieces are matching up at that seam line if you are looking for a nice clean finish on the outside of your garment!

Finish your seams then press seams towards the CB.

Now, there are a LOT of different ways to gather a skirt. I have tried a ton, and this is by far my favorite. If you have your own favorite method of skirt gathering, feel free to use it now! If not, I highly recommend testing out a different method each time you gather a skirt until you find one that you really like!

 

If you’d prefer to attach your pockets before gathering your skirt, skip to tomorrow's sewalong! personally like to add my pockets last so that I can place them in just the right place for my arms to reach.


37) Using a long straight stitch, stitch 1/4” / 0.6 cm from the edge of your fabric on your skirt pieces. Sew a second line of long straight stitches 1/4”/ 0.6 cm from that row of stitches.

Some sewists will sew a third line of stitches to help get their gathers REALLY even. I personally just don't have the patience for sewing a third line, and I like the evenness achieved by doing two lines side by side. Again, this is where you should do whatever works best for you!

These are my machine settings whenever I am going in to tackle some gathering! Remember, you want to have some nice, long thread tails at the beginning and end of your skirt and DON'T backtack your ends!


38) Pull lightly on the bottom threads from one side of your skirt to help gather it.

 I always pull on the bobbin threads because they are the easiest to work with. Whenever I have pulled on my top threads, they tend to get caught and don't want to move or gather my stitches.

 

Awesome! You have completed gathering your skirt! Feel free to set that aside for the day and don't worry about how much or how little you may have gathered your skirt for now. When we go to attach the skirt to the bodice top, we will re-distribute those gathers  so that they fit perfectly within your waistband!

See you all tomorrow for our pockets & plackets!


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