Part 1 - Darted Front - Pant Prep and Darts

I have loved every minute of prepping the Chandlers for the sewing world, and now that they have arrived, I am even MORE excited to be sewing them with you all!

For this sewalong, I'll be doing the following:

1) I am trying something a bit new and releasing all of the sewalong parts relatively close together- I am aiming to have them all live on the site over the course of one or two days. There is no rush to go through them all at once- I just wanted to have everything posted for any speedy sewists that might be lurking about!

2) I will be following my instruction booklet as closely as I can so that you can flit back and forth between this sewalong and the drawings in the booklet with as much ease as possible!

3) I will continue developing supplemental material for this pattern as I can! I already have so many ideas to share with you all, I just hope I find the time to write them all out and photograph them for you!

4) I am doing both the Darted Front Pant and the Pleated Front Pant sewalong simultaneously! I will include how to sew the faux fly view in the Pleated Pant sewalong and the straight fly view in the darted front sewalong, so feel free to jump back and forth between the sewalongs, picking up whatever information is most beneficial to you!

Today, we are going to take on some prep work! And what does any good prep work start with? Supplies!

SUPPLIES NEEDED:

Check page 27 of your instruction booklet for my handy Materials Checklist

OR

Download it HERE

Before You Start!

There are a few things I'd like to note before we jump in to your project!

1) If you haven't already, I highly suggest washing your fabric! Nothing is worse than finishing a project and then having it ruined come laundry day. I can't tell you how much I've regretted not taking the time to wash my fabric before sewing it up. So many cute items are now basically child-sized because they have carelessly been tossed into the dryer and they were never pre-shrunk.

2) While you are waiting for your pretty fabric to wash & dry, I highly highly suggest sewing up a toile. That way, you can be 100% certain that the trousers will fit you EXACTLY how you envisioned before you cut out all the pieces in your pretty fabric.

Plus, you can work on some techniques throughout the process that may be tricky and find your favorite way to put everything together! And since we all are shaped differently, any part of this garment might lay on us imperfectly. Might as well work out those kinks while the fabric is tumbling away in the dryer!

3) The seam allowance for this pattern is 1/2"  (1.3 cm) unless otherwise noted!

4) Remember to be easy on yourself and take lots of breaks! Sewing is supposed to be fun, so if you feel yourself getting frustrated, take a deep breath, tell yourself nice things, and grab a sweet treat! That could mean taking a TV break, walking around outside, grabbing a special cup of coffee, or opting for a quick nap.

Let's Get Started!

A lot of you may not know this, but I stopped using fusible interfacing in 99% of my projects. I am really striving to have fully compostable garments- ones that can be returned to the earth at the end of their life cycle.

In order to achieve this, I have been using sew-interfacing. But I haven't been purchasing it. Instead, I have been using scraps of pre-washed muslin from former projects!

I've always hated the idea of leaving these mock-ups to waste away in a drawer or simply be tossed, so I started cutting them up for each project that required interfacing!

To use sew-in interfacing, all you do is choose a fabric that has similar properties to the one you are working with (you can even use your project's fabric scraps as interfacing if you wanted!) & cut the fabric to the same size as called for in whatever pattern you are working.

Then you need to attach your sew-in interfacing to your garment. Instead of ironing it on, you simply sew it on. I try to sew it within the seam allowances so that no seams are showing in the finished garment. And for any pieces that don't butt up against a seam (like the pocket interfacing) I whip out my hand sewing needle and attach it with a blind stitch.

Voila! It's not much extra effort AND it utilizes all those scraps you've been *secretly* collecting :)

Alright, now that I have given you another interfacing option to mull over, let's jump in!

 

1) With the wrong sides facing you, interface your front waistband and two pocket openings on each of your front pant pieces. For your front pant pieces, cut 1” / 2.5 cm wide strips and fuse to the openings as seen below.

If you are using a non-printed fabric (like me!) mark which side of your fabric is the wrong side so you don't accidentally wind up with two right pant legs!

 

2) Stay stitch your pocket openings on both your pocket pieces and your front pant pieces (along the angled edge).

Jump to Page 32 in your instruction booklet.

6) Sew your front pant darts by matching up the notches and sewing to a tapered point creating a triangle using a straight stitch . Do not backtack at the end points.


7) Tie off the ends of your threads at the dart point and press darts towards the CF of your pants. Baste in place.

 

That's it for today! You can pause here and take the day to refresh, or if you are super lucky and have the rest of the day free to sew, feel free to head on to Part 2- Attaching Your Pockets !


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