When I set out to transform the Sandrine Tank (originally the Kai Tank from my 2016 Aspen Collection) into a sewing pattern, I always knew that I had plans of hacking it to be created from a woven fabric!
Originally, the Sandrine Tank was created as a handmade, shibori dyed tank for Untitled Thoughts, back when I was still running a bespoke RTW line. Each piece was unique and individually crafted from 100% organic cotton (I think this is the exact stuff I used) before being dyed in an indigo bath, all from my home studio. I wanted the tank to be easy and super breezy to stand up against the Southern heat we get each year.
But, just because it was crafted to be made from a knit fabric, doesn’t mean that it can’t easily be adapted into a woven garment. Honestly, I was surprised by how incredibly easy it was to translate this pattern into a woven garment. The only thing I wound up adjusting for myself was the binding!
To create your own woven Sandrine, the first step is to take a gander at the finished garment measurements. Because this is a breezy, loose fitting top, the most important measurement you will want to look at is the finished bust measurement. You want to make sure that whatever size you choose is a bit larger than your actual bust measurement (while wearing the undergarments you plan to wear your final tank with!). That way, you can breathe and dance and not feel restricted in your final outfit.
Now, everyone has their own personal preferences when it comes to wearing ease and only you can decide what you will feel best in, but if you need a reference, Michele of @winmichele has an incredible blog post with minimum wearing ease for garments that you can take a look at!
For my woven Sandrine, I wound up sewing the sleeveless tank in a straight size B. My bust measurement fluctuates anywhere between 35”-38” depending on the day/ time of the month. Looking back, I probably should have done a size C based on my measurements, but this pink tank was supposed to be a muslin and it turned out to be wearable as is!
UPDATE 8/12/2020 I just checked my pattern pieces again and it looks like I did in fact sew up a size C, not a size B! I must have been really sleepy when writing this post. But that explains why the tank fits me well because my measurements fall within a Size C normally! Though I may add a bit more room to the bust area for my next version to keep it from riding up :)
If you are at all nervous about what size to choose when thinking about your woven version, I highly highly highly recommend making a toile. That way, you can see how ALL aspects of the tank fit you and adjust accordingly!
Oh right! I almost forgot to talk about the binding. Instead of doing a knit binding (which you can still 100% do! I think it would be super cute in a contrast color!), I wound up creating long strips of bias tape and simply attached those to the arm and neck openings of my tank. I slightly stretched the bias binding as I was sewing so that they would be smaller than the openings, to mimic that of the original binding. Then I pressed the bindings with steam so that they would lie flat against my body.
There you have it! I would love to see your own woven Sandrine Hack! Feel free to tag your makes with @untitledthoughts or #UTSandrineHack . And if you decide to tackle the sleeved version of the Sandrine, I’d love to hear about your progress! I would recommend finding a woven sleeve that you feel already fits you well and frankensteining it with the Sandrine tank, much like I go over in my blog post Applying Sleeves from One Pattern to Another.