Alright, so yesterday we prepped our bodice and some other bits of our jumpsuit with interfacing and we sewed up all of our darts- woot! For today, we are going to focus on getting our bodice prepped and adding our straps!
Have you got your cup of coffee or tea? I've got a fresh cup of coffee and am ready to dive in! So let's grab our instructions and turn to page 29.
6) With RST*, attach your Front & Back bodice pieces at the side seams. Repeat with your Front and Back lining pieces.
To reduce the bulk at your sides, press your side seams open for both your outer fabric and your lining pieces.
7) Baste your straps to the front and back bodice pieces at the center of the strap opening. There are no notches here, so make sure your strap is centered at the strap opening. I like to use my stay stitches as a guide on where the strap should be placed!
Feel free to pause here to try on your bodice and see if you need to adjust your straps at all. I intentionally kept the straps all one length because every person has different needs when it comes to straps!
Because I cut my straps on the bias, they actually stretched quite a bit and I wound up having to cut them much smaller than my pattern piece! If you find that your arm hole is getting too high and hitting you under the arm in an uncomfortable way, feel free to trim that under arm seam until it sits comfortably on you. Just don't forget to repeat the process with your lining, too!
Once your straps are all adjusted and you feel comfy with their placement, proceed to the next step- keep in mind that when you add your pants /shorts, additional adjustments to your straps may need to be made due to the added garment weight!
8) With RST, attach your bodice lining to your bodice front all along the neckline, strap opening, and under arm seams. Note that you will be sandwiching your straps between the lining and the bodice fabric and sewing them down across the strap opening point.
You might notice that depending on your strap length, the under arm seam becomes a bit bunched and might look challenging to sew. You can do one of two things at this point:
a) You can sew your garment slowly, straightening out the portion of your under arm that is being sewn and then carefully straightening the other side of the under arm once you get to it.
Either way works, but some prefer one method of construction over the other. IF this is your first jumpsuit, why not attempt each method (one on each strap) to determine which you like best?
Before we move on to the next step, I wanted to share a quick tip with you for adding strength and rigidity to your LOWWWWW back! Because of the very steep V-neck shape, your low back will more than likely stretch out over time with continued use.
To help prevent that stretching process, I like to add twill tape to that seam. Not everyone has twill tape lying around their studios (unless you are a professional tailor, maybe?) so in a pinch, you can also tear strips of muslin to use a s a substitute, which is exactly what I did!
When sewing, you'll want to catch the twill tape with your stitches, but not so much so that it creates a lot of added bulk. It's a fine dance you are partaking in, so play with it and see what looks and feels best to you!
I sewed my strip of muslin just a bit to the inside of my seam allowance so that not ton of it would be caught when I go to understitch this portion.
9) Clip around the curves, at strap points, and at your neckline points.
10) Turn your bodice right side out and make sure you didn’t accidentally catch your straps in a funny way (as I have done countless times!)
11) Understitch your necklines & underarms as far as you can. If you need help with understitching (it can be a bit tricky!) feel free to check out this quick tutorial I put together!
12) Press your entire bodice till it looks nice and crisp!
13) Pin your lining to your bodice fabric at the waist & baste them together along the edge to attach.
ANNNDDDD we are done for today! Whew! You have an entire bodice assembled now- how cool is that? I think you deserve a high five and a mini-dance party!
I will see you tomorrow when we get into assembling our pockets! By the end of this week, you are gunna be rocking and rolling in your new Olive :D