Matilda Wrap Dress Sewalong Part 1- Creating the Bodice & Attaching your Sleeves

This entire pattern making process has been so much fun! I've been swept up into a whirlwind of excitement! With each new pattern, I learn something new and attempt to bring those improvements into my next pattern.

That includes introducing sewalongs for each of my new patterns! I am still in the learning phases of putting these together, so feel free to drop a line with any improvements/ additions/ subtractions you might want to see in the next round <3

SUPPLIES NEEDED:
    Knit Fabric with at least 20% stretch
    Scissors
    Sewing Machine
    Thread
    Pins
    Iron + Ironing Board
    Ironing Ham
    Towel (For Velvet)
    Safety Pin or Strap Turner
    Pattern
                             

Before You Start!

There are a few things I'd like to note before you jump in to your project!

1) If you are working with Velvet, it is really important that when you iron you don't accidentally crush the pile of your velvet. To avoid crushing the pile (or adding unwanted shiny iron marks to it), always put a towel between the plush surface and the iron or ironing board.

2) For all straight stiches, I suggest setting your stitch length to 3.0.

3) For all Zig Zag Stitches, I suggest setting your stitch width to 2.5 and stitch length to 3.5. Also, feel free to test different stitch width/length options for your knit as every knit reacts differently!

4) The seam allowance for this pattern is 3/8"/ 1 cm unless otherwise noted!


Let's Get Started!

We are going to start by sewing our front darts together- For my sample, I accidentally matched the CF notch with one of the dart notches and hadn't realized until nearly the end of the project! It resulted in the bodice being WAYY more open than I had intended! Luckily it was a simple fix.


Don't make the same mistake I did here- be sure to mark your dart legs correctly! They are the center notch and the notch closest to the under arm seam. I can't believe how silly I was to sew the center front notch as the bodice dart!


 Tie off the ends of your threads at the dart point and press your darts towards the CF of the bodice. If you'd like, staystich those bad boys in place so that they don't move around on you later.

With right sides together, sew your bodice front pieces to your bodice back piece at the shoulder seams.

Before we add your flutter sleeve to your bodice pieces, we will need to finish off it's fluttery edge. Simply press the outer edge of your sleeve in by 1/2" / 1.3 cm and stitch into place. I typically use a zig zag stitch for all the finishing on my knits, but if you want your dress to look more like those you might find in a shop, you can totally pull out a double needle for this step!

Once you have finished the outer edge of your sleeve, you can then pin it to your bodice pieces. Start by matching the notch on your sleeve to the shoulder seam then pinning the remainder of your sleeve into place. Sew that whimsical bit into place!

Before we finalize your sleeve with the under arm binding, let's finish off the front bodice opening by folding those seams back 1/2" / 1.3 cm  and stitching them into place.

With right sides together, you sew your bodice side seams closed. Now we are ready to tackle the under arm binding!

With right sides together, sew the short ends of your binding to form a ring of fabric. Press that seam open.

 

With wrong sides together, fold your binding down lengthwise, like a hot dog. A circular hot dog if that makes any sense, haha! Baste your binding together at the raw edge. This helps to keep your binding from slipping all over the place when you go to attach it to your armhole.

Pin your under arm binding to the arm hole of your bodice with the raw edges flush against each other. You'll want to make sure that you move your flutter sleeve towards the front of your bodice so that it doesn't get caught under the seam binding.

Note that your binding should be slightly smaller than your armhole opening. That's totally ok! Stretch your binding gently so that it fits snugly around the armhole and sew into place. Press your seam allowance to the inside of your bodice.

 

Yay! We have finished up the bodice and the sleeves! Give yourself a pat on the back :) I hope to see you tomorrow; That's when will be adding our waist band and tie to the bodice.



 

 


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